Must Have Watches in a Collection: Build Your Ultimate Set with These

by Alice Browne

Honestly, watching all those fancy influencer collections freaked me out. So many pieces, so much money! But then I realized, man, I don’t need a museum. I just need the key players that actually get worn. Started thinking about real life, you know? What do I actually do? My journey kinda rolled out like this.

Must Have Watches in a Collection: Build Your Ultimate Set with These

Step 1: Ignoring The Noise (Sorta)

First, I stopped scrolling Instagram collections for, like, a solid week. Comparison is the thief of joy and all that jazz. Instead, I looked at my own wrist. What was I grabbing most days? It was this beat-up Seiko diver from years ago. That told me something obvious: I needed something tough, reliable, water-resistant enough for dumb stuff like washing dishes or getting caught in rain. A proper dive watch felt like the absolute bedrock. But buying new? Nah. My bank account cried. So I hit up trusted forums, learned about crown guards and bezel action, and stalked the second-hand market for a used Rolex Submariner. Took months of saving and searching, but finally landed a no-date one from the late 90s. Scratches tell stories, right?

Step 2: Getting My Timing Fix

Okay, divers are cool, but what about measuring stuff? Like, how long is this Zoom meeting REALLY gonna last? Or timing parking meters? I needed a chronograph. Fancy perpetual calendars seemed like overkill headache material. I wanted something classic, manual wind, with history. Enter the Omega Speedmaster. Yeah, the Moonwatch. Found a vintage Mark II from the 70s online after major diligence – checking serials, getting extra macro shots, asking a million questions. Got it serviced locally right after it landed. Perfect blend of space history and pure, ugly-cool 70s charm. Totally different vibe from the Sub.

Step 3: Dressing Up Without Dressing Down My Wallet

The Sub and Speedmaster? Both chunky boys. Tried wearing them with a suit for a wedding. Felt like strapping a hockey puck to my wrist under the cuff. Awkward. Needed something sleek. This was the toughest hunt. Didn’t wanna spend another fortune. Considered vintage Seiko or maybe a Grand Seiko, but found the size/thinness trade-offs tricky for my wrist. Kept looking. Eventually, stumbled upon this clean, pre-owned Patek Philippe Calatrava reference at a local dealer. Older model, simple white dial, gold hands. Crazy thin. Looked sharp without screaming. Saved hard, traded in a couple of old pieces I never wore, and bit the bullet. This one hurt the bank a little, but man, slips under the cuff like butter.

Step 4: The Daily Beater Hero

Okay, got the heavy hitter diver, the cool chrono, the sharp dress piece. Felt pretty smug. Then reality hit. Things like:

  • Gardening
  • Changing the oil on my bike
  • Running to the grocery store covered in sweat
  • Airport security lines

No way was I wearing the Patek or the Speedmaster for that madness. Needed something I truly didn’t give a damn about. Enter the legend: Timex Weekender. $40 bucks. Light. Easy. Change the strap for $5 and it feels fresh. If I lose it or break it? Zero stress. It’s the ultimate workhorse. Gets more wrist time than any other piece by miles.

Must Have Watches in a Collection: Build Your Ultimate Set with These

Building The Wall (Kinda)

So where am I now? That’s the core squad:

  • The Anchor: Rolex Submariner (Used)
  • The Timer: Omega Speedmaster Mark II (Vintage)
  • The Sharp Dude: Patek Philippe Calatrava (Pre-owned)
  • The Workhorse: Timex Weekender (New)

Honestly, this little box covers probably 99% of my life. Found the Speedmaster needed a specific strap for maximum comfy, so swapped to a flatter leather one. The Weekender has half a dozen cheap NATO straps in different colors. That’s the beauty. I’m not adding anything else unless something truly speaks to me AND fills a gap this set doesn’t. Collecting ain’t about filling slots, it’s about wearing what you love for what you do. This approach stopped me from wasting cash on “might wear” pieces gathering dust. Happy collecting!

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